Still on the project M900W, the next element to sort out was the fuel system. The previous owner had really messed this up. I gutted the entire assembly and installed new fuel lines, a quick disconnect by the tank, a new fuel filter, a Pingel manual petcock, a new Mikuni vacuum fuel pump, and lastly pulled the already equipped Keihin FCR 41 carbs and thoroughly cleaned them.
This segment does not yet have a happy ending, as the electrical system was in even worse shape, so there was no chance of a test fire just yet.
The wiring harness had been cut through as if a kindergartner had been let loose on it with a pair of non-safety scissors. The taillight and turnsignal wiring was in shambles. Luckily, over the Christmas holidays, my father felt sorry for the poor bike's ugly wiring and sprung for Rizoma signals, which I believe he got from PJ's Parts. After some cutting, some soldering, some crimping, and some posi-locks, things are almost wired up. I still had a MotoLED tail light board from the M900V leftover when I upgraded to the Vizi-Tec system, so in it went as well. The tail was further chopped to accommodate a TPO taillight / license plate kit.
A Shorai battery just arrived from Motowheels, and I am excited to install it in the bike. But before a test of the bike can be performed, the electrical circuits must be reviewed again - the regulator had another ground wire coming off of it and running down the frame to the original battery location, and the fusebox contained all 30A fuses! These things will be remedied before its set in motion, and the regulator may be preemptively replaced/upgraded as well!
Other things done: All controls mounted on new handlebar (previous owner had poorly thought out clip-on installation), fresh oil, oil filter, oil cooler lines, bled hydraulics and put in new brake pads (will be upgraded masters to radial SBK masters with folding levers, purchased but not yet installed)
What's left to do? Tires, Chain, Clutch pack, install frame and rear axle sliders, CA-Cycleworks Exact-Fit Coils, sort out the remaining wiring, install shock and hoop, fill it up with gas, and hopefully ride off!
Showing posts with label CA-Cycleworks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label CA-Cycleworks. Show all posts
10 February 2011
10 March 2010
Spring Update
Its been awhile since I've updated last. Lots of things have changed included the abilities of the rider. I'm working more closely with a local shop on different abilities, which coincides nicely with the just begun WorldSBK season, and the upcoming MotoGP season. (I do also regularly watch the AMA races, but thanks to DVR, I seem to put them off until lazy afternoons and don't really keep up with that league in real-time).
The bike has been taken apart for a bit after getting some good miles on fair-weather days in the late-winter/early spring. The weather in DFW is funny and quite unpredictable. It dumped snow recently, without much prediction, and was 70 degrees outside shortly before, and shortly after that weekend.
The bike is having bungs welded to the exhaust headers so a fuel/air ratio monitor can be easily attached to aid in tuning. After the welding is complete, the headers are being shipped off to be coated by Jet Hot, along with the intake flanges. The principle behind ceramic coating is quite simple and something I enjoyed working as an undergraduate in Fluid/Thermal Systems.
To simplify, A biker wants the exhaust to get out of the motor, and out of the pipes quickly, for performance reasons. Similarly, a biker does not like getting burnt by the heat coming off the exhaust pipes. And lastly, if a biker can keep the bike's ambient temperature down, he can extract a little more performance all around (from cooler fuel, to easier engine cooling, etc).
Ceramic coating benefits all of the above. In a standard setup, the expelled exhaust gases are free to lose heat through the walls of the exhaust, evident if you've ever grabbed a hot exhaust pipe or, worse, header pipe. The exhaust gases cool as exhaust gas loses heat to the metal, and then to the ambient air. This cooler gas becomes more dense and moves more slowly. If the pipes were insulated, via exhaust wrap or ceramic coating, the exhaust gas would be less able to release heat before exiting the pipe. Good for performance, good for your extremities which get too close on occasion, and good for keeping radiant heat down.
The ceramic coating process, in its preferred form, adds the coating to both the inside and outside of the pipe. The intake manifolds, those which connect the carburettors to the cylinder intakes, are also being coated. Instead of keeping the heat in those pipes, as the goal is for ceramic coated exhaust, the goal is to keep the heat out of the intake air. A cooler, denser intake air increases performance of the motor as well.
While everything is apart, the carbs have been pulled to be thoroughly cleaned, and since the fuel lines and vacuum hoses all around have been on the bike for well over 5-years each, its time they be replaced. While the lines are being replaced, I took the opportunity to remove the vacuum petcock system and replace with a good old fashioned fuel valve. No more risk of vacuum troubles arising from the petcock's failure, it's related hose failure, and a cleaner look all the way around. The fuel pump needed rebuilt as its the original from 1999 (likely put on the bike in 1998 during assembly and sitting on the shelf for who-knows how long before that). Chris Kelley of CA-Cycleworks sells a convenient, inexpensive vacuum operated Mikuni replacement that is rectangular to replace the vacuum operated Mikuni pentagon shaped pump. The great bonus with the replacement fuel pump is that its cost is the same as the rebuild kit!
The fuel supply line is now run around the left (alternator) side of the bike, rather than in front of the vertical cylinder belt cover. To keep heat away from the fuel line and fuel inside, the lines have been insulated with Heatshield Products heatwrap (Builders Kits) or the similar material from McMaster-Carr.
The idea of putting everything back together, only to bolt up the OEM Mikuni 38 CV carbs is perhaps a little much. This may be the easiest opportunity to bolt up a set of Keihin FCR-41s that I'll have, and with my recent carbon fiber fabrication (thanks unofficially to friends at Lockheed), I could also make a new battery box and coil bracket, and go to the more attractive (though debatable/negligibly worse performing) pod filters. The next question that would arise is... K&N Pods or UNI Filters?
The bike has been taken apart for a bit after getting some good miles on fair-weather days in the late-winter/early spring. The weather in DFW is funny and quite unpredictable. It dumped snow recently, without much prediction, and was 70 degrees outside shortly before, and shortly after that weekend.
The bike is having bungs welded to the exhaust headers so a fuel/air ratio monitor can be easily attached to aid in tuning. After the welding is complete, the headers are being shipped off to be coated by Jet Hot, along with the intake flanges. The principle behind ceramic coating is quite simple and something I enjoyed working as an undergraduate in Fluid/Thermal Systems.
To simplify, A biker wants the exhaust to get out of the motor, and out of the pipes quickly, for performance reasons. Similarly, a biker does not like getting burnt by the heat coming off the exhaust pipes. And lastly, if a biker can keep the bike's ambient temperature down, he can extract a little more performance all around (from cooler fuel, to easier engine cooling, etc).
Ceramic coating benefits all of the above. In a standard setup, the expelled exhaust gases are free to lose heat through the walls of the exhaust, evident if you've ever grabbed a hot exhaust pipe or, worse, header pipe. The exhaust gases cool as exhaust gas loses heat to the metal, and then to the ambient air. This cooler gas becomes more dense and moves more slowly. If the pipes were insulated, via exhaust wrap or ceramic coating, the exhaust gas would be less able to release heat before exiting the pipe. Good for performance, good for your extremities which get too close on occasion, and good for keeping radiant heat down.
The ceramic coating process, in its preferred form, adds the coating to both the inside and outside of the pipe. The intake manifolds, those which connect the carburettors to the cylinder intakes, are also being coated. Instead of keeping the heat in those pipes, as the goal is for ceramic coated exhaust, the goal is to keep the heat out of the intake air. A cooler, denser intake air increases performance of the motor as well.
While everything is apart, the carbs have been pulled to be thoroughly cleaned, and since the fuel lines and vacuum hoses all around have been on the bike for well over 5-years each, its time they be replaced. While the lines are being replaced, I took the opportunity to remove the vacuum petcock system and replace with a good old fashioned fuel valve. No more risk of vacuum troubles arising from the petcock's failure, it's related hose failure, and a cleaner look all the way around. The fuel pump needed rebuilt as its the original from 1999 (likely put on the bike in 1998 during assembly and sitting on the shelf for who-knows how long before that). Chris Kelley of CA-Cycleworks sells a convenient, inexpensive vacuum operated Mikuni replacement that is rectangular to replace the vacuum operated Mikuni pentagon shaped pump. The great bonus with the replacement fuel pump is that its cost is the same as the rebuild kit!
The fuel supply line is now run around the left (alternator) side of the bike, rather than in front of the vertical cylinder belt cover. To keep heat away from the fuel line and fuel inside, the lines have been insulated with Heatshield Products heatwrap (Builders Kits) or the similar material from McMaster-Carr.
The idea of putting everything back together, only to bolt up the OEM Mikuni 38 CV carbs is perhaps a little much. This may be the easiest opportunity to bolt up a set of Keihin FCR-41s that I'll have, and with my recent carbon fiber fabrication (thanks unofficially to friends at Lockheed), I could also make a new battery box and coil bracket, and go to the more attractive (though debatable/negligibly worse performing) pod filters. The next question that would arise is... K&N Pods or UNI Filters?
01 January 2010
On Geometry
Recently, I've made two changes to the bike's geometry. The 1999 Monster is a member of the 1993-2001 Monster Frame series, which shares many features with the 851/888 bikes. The main differences are an additional brace near the steering stem was removed to accommodate the Monster's air box and the rear section of the frame is welded on, rather than being a subframe (subframes ARE used on all 'new' Monsters, a la 696/1100 and generally all other Ducatis, including the Hypermotard and the Superbikes).
A distinguishing feature of the 851/888/Monster's frame from the newer 2002-2009 ST based Monster frames is the hooped swingarm suspension. The swingarm connects to a hoop or arch that connects to a pivot or lever arm, which in turn is connected to the top of the shock. The hoop is originally made of steel and comes the color of the bike's frame. Thus, mine was antique gold. Until I changed it. For several years, I've been running a lighter and stiffer billet swingarm hoop. It left the geometry essentially the same, but gave a slight amount more feedback while looking really good. It came to my attention that DMF Member sweir1171 was making a ride-height adjustment kit. The kit features two machined, threaded risers that will raise the tail of the bike a few cm. They work fantastically and went right on.
Such a modification will change the wheelbase of the motorcycle and quicken steering.
While I quite liked the quicker steering and change in feel, I was also interested in improving the feel of the front end. The forks have been reworked with a basic respring, revalve and re-oil using RaceTech components, but aside from the slightly stiffer and lighter CycleCat top triple and clipon handlebars, not much else had changed. This is when I contacted IMA SrL. These guys are fantastic to work with.
There are a few differences in the pre-02 Monster frames and the newer Monster (02-09) frames beyond the rear suspension assembly. The older frame Monsters, along with all Supersports, utilize a narrow steering stem and are equipped from the factory with tapered roller bearings. The offset (the distance between the centerline of the forks and the steering stem) is 25mm. To put this into perspective, superbikes frequently leave the factory with 36mm offsets, and aftermarket triples may change this down to 32 or even 30mm. Several vendors sell triples with offsets as low as 27mm (Ducshop).
Newer Monsters (02+) have a bigger 30mm offset from the factory, use a much larger diameter steering stem and do not come with roller bearings from the factory (though one could upgrade to SpeedyMoto's set if they like). The rake change from old style monsters to new style monsters is a small but perceivable 23 or 23.5 (depending on the source you read) to 24 degrees. IMA produces beefy billet aluminum triple sets (upper and lower, including steering stem) for older Monsters and Supersports that increase the offset to 30mm, same as the new Monsters, and even allow for the use of a Monster-esque bar on a Supersport (if one was so inclined). They provided me with a black anodized set for my Monster.
Installation involves suspending the front end of the motorcycle, removing the wheel, gauges, controls and anything touching the triples. Once that's all taken care of, the triples are loosened and removed from the bike. The inner races must be knocked out of the steering stem before the new races may be inserted. Then a new tapered bearing that has been well greased is driven on to the IMA triple's stem. The factory uses SKF bearings, and that's what I replaced the set with (obtained from CA-Cycleworks in SpeedyMoto's convenient packaging). Then its all put back together, titanium bolts all around, and you get:
From a bit of a distance:
Update - 3/29/2010
The finished product has a trail of approximately 90.5mm, and started closer to 96mm. original wheelbase was 1430mm, and the final result is minimally smaller. The feel is fantastic on the street, though I've only put about 1,000mi on since the original writeup. I've yet to find really great roads outside of DFW like I had nearby in Middle Tennessee. Looks like its time to start taking off bling so I can track this bike. Or perhaps its time to invest in a 2nd bike for track only.
A distinguishing feature of the 851/888/Monster's frame from the newer 2002-2009 ST based Monster frames is the hooped swingarm suspension. The swingarm connects to a hoop or arch that connects to a pivot or lever arm, which in turn is connected to the top of the shock. The hoop is originally made of steel and comes the color of the bike's frame. Thus, mine was antique gold. Until I changed it. For several years, I've been running a lighter and stiffer billet swingarm hoop. It left the geometry essentially the same, but gave a slight amount more feedback while looking really good. It came to my attention that DMF Member sweir1171 was making a ride-height adjustment kit. The kit features two machined, threaded risers that will raise the tail of the bike a few cm. They work fantastically and went right on.
Such a modification will change the wheelbase of the motorcycle and quicken steering.
While I quite liked the quicker steering and change in feel, I was also interested in improving the feel of the front end. The forks have been reworked with a basic respring, revalve and re-oil using RaceTech components, but aside from the slightly stiffer and lighter CycleCat top triple and clipon handlebars, not much else had changed. This is when I contacted IMA SrL. These guys are fantastic to work with.
There are a few differences in the pre-02 Monster frames and the newer Monster (02-09) frames beyond the rear suspension assembly. The older frame Monsters, along with all Supersports, utilize a narrow steering stem and are equipped from the factory with tapered roller bearings. The offset (the distance between the centerline of the forks and the steering stem) is 25mm. To put this into perspective, superbikes frequently leave the factory with 36mm offsets, and aftermarket triples may change this down to 32 or even 30mm. Several vendors sell triples with offsets as low as 27mm (Ducshop).
Newer Monsters (02+) have a bigger 30mm offset from the factory, use a much larger diameter steering stem and do not come with roller bearings from the factory (though one could upgrade to SpeedyMoto's set if they like). The rake change from old style monsters to new style monsters is a small but perceivable 23 or 23.5 (depending on the source you read) to 24 degrees. IMA produces beefy billet aluminum triple sets (upper and lower, including steering stem) for older Monsters and Supersports that increase the offset to 30mm, same as the new Monsters, and even allow for the use of a Monster-esque bar on a Supersport (if one was so inclined). They provided me with a black anodized set for my Monster.
Installation involves suspending the front end of the motorcycle, removing the wheel, gauges, controls and anything touching the triples. Once that's all taken care of, the triples are loosened and removed from the bike. The inner races must be knocked out of the steering stem before the new races may be inserted. Then a new tapered bearing that has been well greased is driven on to the IMA triple's stem. The factory uses SKF bearings, and that's what I replaced the set with (obtained from CA-Cycleworks in SpeedyMoto's convenient packaging). Then its all put back together, titanium bolts all around, and you get:
From a bit of a distance:
Update - 3/29/2010
The finished product has a trail of approximately 90.5mm, and started closer to 96mm. original wheelbase was 1430mm, and the final result is minimally smaller. The feel is fantastic on the street, though I've only put about 1,000mi on since the original writeup. I've yet to find really great roads outside of DFW like I had nearby in Middle Tennessee. Looks like its time to start taking off bling so I can track this bike. Or perhaps its time to invest in a 2nd bike for track only.
29 December 2009
Santa Came!
This year's Christmas was more eventful than expected. While my close friends may recall I had an eventful summer, this had me expecting things to stay quite low key, at least for me, during the Holidays. Surprisingly, it wasn't as mundane as I had anticipated. From her parents came the Ignitech Sparker TCIP4 Programmable Ignition, via CA-Cycleworks! Very unexpected. This is a really neat unit. You simply unplug and remove the factory equipped ignition units, and plug this beast in. You can connect your computer using a serial-to-USB adapter and edit the ignition curve advance. Very trick.
The Ignitech has many great features and Brad Black's writeup is not to be missed regarding this ignition. I find it a great compliment to the DynaCoils kit on the bike, removing any weak spots from the Ducati's ignition setup. This will be especially handy when high compression pistons and performance cams are installed in the Monster.
Additionally, the added engine performance will be balanced with a little more 'stop'. New ISR rotors are being equipped, obtained from DesmoWorks. Everybody should have the opportunity to work with Anthony Creek, he's fantastic. Really makes you happy there is a good lot of folks in the Ducati community (such as Anthony with Desmoworks, Chris at CA-Cycleworks, and Brian and the Motowheels crew among many many others).
These are getting mounted with the titanium rotor bolts and the brake calipers are going to get some love as well, in the form of new titanium thru-bolts.
The Ignitech has many great features and Brad Black's writeup is not to be missed regarding this ignition. I find it a great compliment to the DynaCoils kit on the bike, removing any weak spots from the Ducati's ignition setup. This will be especially handy when high compression pistons and performance cams are installed in the Monster.
Additionally, the added engine performance will be balanced with a little more 'stop'. New ISR rotors are being equipped, obtained from DesmoWorks. Everybody should have the opportunity to work with Anthony Creek, he's fantastic. Really makes you happy there is a good lot of folks in the Ducati community (such as Anthony with Desmoworks, Chris at CA-Cycleworks, and Brian and the Motowheels crew among many many others).
These are getting mounted with the titanium rotor bolts and the brake calipers are going to get some love as well, in the form of new titanium thru-bolts.
28 December 2007
Winter Work - 2007-08
Not too much new for the bike this winter. A set of Ducati Performance Reverse Megaphones has replaced the Ex Box as the classic, or retro look was desired. Gold Anodized Vee-Two cam pulleys have been installed as well as CA-Cycleworks Ignition Coils to liven up the spark. Alain @ Corse Motorsports supplied the work, but obviously the slipons were a breeze to install, and the cam pulleys were relatively painless (said Alain) and just required proper degreeing. The ignition coils installation has been covered ad nauseum so it would be silly to remind you again how painless this install is.
On order from Motowheels is a custom Sargent seat to replace the stiff, improperly angled stock seat. The often colored welt will remain black on my seat, with the Italian Flag on the side and the CarbonFX seat material insert. The seat cowl will still adorn the rear as it fits over the Sargent without too much issue. The underside of the aftermarket seat has increased storage making stowage of a wheel lock or wallet much easier.
Shifting has changed as the bike is now setup with a GP-style shifter from Motowheels. Their new style reverse shifter has an upgraded curved look with your choice of anodized color for the toe piece, but is unfortunately too long for Monsters with the large diameter bolt kickstand and stock rearsets. Their other unit, with replaceable toe piece is shorter, however, and should work fine. Riding with the new shift pattern may be tricky but a post-it on the tach reminding "down for up" will help me. Pictures will be featured below within a few days.
On order from Motowheels is a custom Sargent seat to replace the stiff, improperly angled stock seat. The often colored welt will remain black on my seat, with the Italian Flag on the side and the CarbonFX seat material insert. The seat cowl will still adorn the rear as it fits over the Sargent without too much issue. The underside of the aftermarket seat has increased storage making stowage of a wheel lock or wallet much easier.
Shifting has changed as the bike is now setup with a GP-style shifter from Motowheels. Their new style reverse shifter has an upgraded curved look with your choice of anodized color for the toe piece, but is unfortunately too long for Monsters with the large diameter bolt kickstand and stock rearsets. Their other unit, with replaceable toe piece is shorter, however, and should work fine. Riding with the new shift pattern may be tricky but a post-it on the tach reminding "down for up" will help me. Pictures will be featured below within a few days.
Next up on the list? Tail Chop, Reworked forks, New
rear suspension, clutch plate & cover.
11 December 2006
My Tank is Here
Brad did a phenomenal job on this tank. The pictures don't do it justice (but are included below, of course). I look forward to seeing it back on the bike soon. Note the retro (60's-70's era) logos and the Corse-style center stripe.All the dents are gone and the paint looks so deep and glossy. The fairings are smooth and plastic damage has been repaired. I couldn't be happier with the job from Speedzone Paint & Bodyworks. Brad really did a fantastic job with my crashed tank.
Below are images of all three parts that Brad did for me:
Meanwhile, I have also received several parts to complete mods while the bike is in the shop. A little housekeeping is to be done and the DesmoTimes Case Saver Insert is to be installed soon. The rear ride height is going to be raised to quicken turn-in and to compensate for the increased lean angle at rest, a CycleCat sidestand that's a little over 1/2" longer will be used.
To clean up a large amount of tubing mess behind the motor, a Nichols Crankcase Breather and K&N Breather Filter are also going to be installed. As many of these mods have costly parts, the open clutch cover, a SpeedyMoto Flow Design, is going to have to be put off even further. Meanwhile, I have decided to slowly 'spruce' up the internals so when the open clutch cover is installed, there is already a considerable amount of "Bling" to show. To do this, I had already installed Stainless Steel Springs, but I now have Titanium Spring Retention Bolts and Red Billet CycleCat Spring Keepers.
The collection of new parts came from a number of different sources. The vendors include TPO Parts, CA-Cycleworks, and MotoWheels. An image below shows the collection of new parts that will be installed at the beginning of next week (hopefully.)
06 December 2006
Parts are in, Tank on the way!
The K&N breather filter Kit, Nichols Crankcase Breather, CRG Mirror, Custom Xenon Headlight, CycleCat Billet Spring keepers & sidestand, DesmoTimes case saver insert, and the like have all arrived, no problems. Parts from MotoWheels, CA-Cycleworks, & TPO Parts. Looks like the full rebuild is a go.
I have CAD'ed up a license plate bracket and bought the sheet of aluminum, I only lack specific hole location measurements now before I start the tail chop process. I'll be ordering frame plugs from DesmoWorld.de, as their plugs have a unique design to them, and I'd like to do business with the guys at that shop. Should something arise and I find the STM plugs on a large discount I won't be hesitating to buy them as I also like the look of those, inasmuch I like any of the billet pieces, just not plastic plugs!
Recent phone call to Brad of Speedzone Paint & Bodyworks. The tank is shipped and billed, I should have it by the end of the week. He broke out the cost for me shown below, the total was $880.00:
I have CAD'ed up a license plate bracket and bought the sheet of aluminum, I only lack specific hole location measurements now before I start the tail chop process. I'll be ordering frame plugs from DesmoWorld.de, as their plugs have a unique design to them, and I'd like to do business with the guys at that shop. Should something arise and I find the STM plugs on a large discount I won't be hesitating to buy them as I also like the look of those, inasmuch I like any of the billet pieces, just not plastic plugs!
Recent phone call to Brad of Speedzone Paint & Bodyworks. The tank is shipped and billed, I should have it by the end of the week. He broke out the cost for me shown below, the total was $880.00:
- Tank Repair + Ducati 'Rosso' Red Paint - $440.00
- Tank Striping - White Center Stripe - $75.00
- Tank Decals - Retro Logo in White with Black Border - $40.00
- Seat Cowl Repair + Ducati 'Rosso' Red Paint - $135
- Headlight Fairing Repair + Ducati 'Rosso' Red Paint - $115
- Seat Cowl and Headlight Fairing Striping - White Center Stripe - $75.00
Brad was incredibly easy to work with and I would recommend him to anyone (and I will be recommending him!)Pictures should be in by the end of the week.
27 November 2006
More Parts for the Bike, Tank Update -
Lots of New Parts have been ordered recently. Here's the breakdown (quick and dirty).
From CA-Cycleworks, I will be enjoying a Nichols Crankcase Breather, I didn't forget the crush washer, and while I was there I picked up a matching CRG Hindsight Lane-Split Mirror for my RH Side, as well as the DesmoTimes Case Saver Insert. Might as well pick up the necessities while I'm there I figured.
To go with the Nichols Crankcase Breather, I have ordered the K&N Filter & Air Box Plugs Kit from TPO Parts. While I'm picking things up there, I decided to try out there "Custom Xenon Headlight" for Monsters, as a brighter lighting option. Since things things are adding up, I've chosen to equip the Duc with a less expensive method for letting the rattle out, and that's with the Clutch Cover Spacers Kit.
To take on the predicament of fluid reservoirs at the handlebars for the clutch and brake M/C's, I have decided to go with the Rizoma Bottom Outflow Reservoir's with Window (CT0017) in Titanium. This round the CycleCat bars, which are also in Titanium to give a less conspicuous mounting. The reservoirs are being shipped from PJ's Parts, as I have had several pleasant dealings with them so far.
The last of the parts come again from MotoWheels. To begin the clutch improvement, I ordered the Titanium Clutch Spring Bolts & CycleCat DSK-1 Billet Spring Keepers in Red. The future plan is for the pressure plate to be gold, red caps, behind a titanium color SpeedyMoto "Flow" Cover. The Titanium Spring Bolts and Billet Caps go with the SS Clutch Springs and STM Clutch Pin Holder already installed on the bike. The main reason for this shopping extravaganza began with the CycleCat DKS-35 Billet Sidestand in Silver. This is the slightly longer sidestand to relax the lean angle when the bike is at rest. My stock sidestand is completely nasty and covered with scratches, etc and this will go well with the rear ride height raise that is being done by Corse Motorsports while its in getting put back together.
TANK NEWS:
Brad emailed from Speedzone to let me know that everything looked great and just required a little more time before it was shipped to avoid impressions from the shipping packaging, etc. The decals came out fantastic, and it looks like the bike will be back on the road and running by Christmas.
From CA-Cycleworks, I will be enjoying a Nichols Crankcase Breather, I didn't forget the crush washer, and while I was there I picked up a matching CRG Hindsight Lane-Split Mirror for my RH Side, as well as the DesmoTimes Case Saver Insert. Might as well pick up the necessities while I'm there I figured.
To go with the Nichols Crankcase Breather, I have ordered the K&N Filter & Air Box Plugs Kit from TPO Parts. While I'm picking things up there, I decided to try out there "Custom Xenon Headlight" for Monsters, as a brighter lighting option. Since things things are adding up, I've chosen to equip the Duc with a less expensive method for letting the rattle out, and that's with the Clutch Cover Spacers Kit.
To take on the predicament of fluid reservoirs at the handlebars for the clutch and brake M/C's, I have decided to go with the Rizoma Bottom Outflow Reservoir's with Window (CT0017) in Titanium. This round the CycleCat bars, which are also in Titanium to give a less conspicuous mounting. The reservoirs are being shipped from PJ's Parts, as I have had several pleasant dealings with them so far.
The last of the parts come again from MotoWheels. To begin the clutch improvement, I ordered the Titanium Clutch Spring Bolts & CycleCat DSK-1 Billet Spring Keepers in Red. The future plan is for the pressure plate to be gold, red caps, behind a titanium color SpeedyMoto "Flow" Cover. The Titanium Spring Bolts and Billet Caps go with the SS Clutch Springs and STM Clutch Pin Holder already installed on the bike. The main reason for this shopping extravaganza began with the CycleCat DKS-35 Billet Sidestand in Silver. This is the slightly longer sidestand to relax the lean angle when the bike is at rest. My stock sidestand is completely nasty and covered with scratches, etc and this will go well with the rear ride height raise that is being done by Corse Motorsports while its in getting put back together.
TANK NEWS:
Brad emailed from Speedzone to let me know that everything looked great and just required a little more time before it was shipped to avoid impressions from the shipping packaging, etc. The decals came out fantastic, and it looks like the bike will be back on the road and running by Christmas.
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